Could light therapy be the secret to better skin?

When it comes to skincare, you're used to the bevy of products, tools, and techniques that promise smooth, glowing, flawless skin. Something you may not be as privy to? The use of light as a skincare treatment. As it turns out, light of certain wavelengths comes with a slew of skincare benefits, ranging from diminishing fine lines to boosting circulation, which ensures proper delivery of nutrients to skin cells as well as elimination of waste (such as free radicals).

There are three main light-based technologies: LED, IPL, and laser. Which one you seek depends on your skincare goals. Allow us to break them down, with the help of Los Angeles–based dermatologist Dr. Edgar Fincher of Moy, Fincher, Chipps Facial Plastics & Dermatology. (We talked to Dr. Fincher in 2020, when this article was originally published.)

LED light therapy for anti-aging and anti-acne benefits

LED, which stands for light-emitting diodes, is a non-invasive form of light therapy that uses non-thermal wavelengths (meaning you won't feel any heat) of light energy to trigger a cellular reaction. LED light therapy can use various colors of light, and they all do different things for your skin. For example, red and near-infrared light stimulates the collagen-producing fibroblast cells on the skin, resulting in plumper skin and lessened fine lines. Blue light, on the other hand, kills off bacteria and reduces oil gland activity, making it a worthwhile treatment for those with oily, acneic skin.

Depending on where you get it done, LED light therapy sessions can run from about $25 for a basic spa add-on to $280 at a medical practice using medical-grade panels. Sessions last roughly 20 minutes, and you may need eight to 10 sessions spaced a week apart for the best results. Results are cumulative, but most people start seeing a change in their skin after four sessions. And the treatment is painless and suitable for all skin tones and types. Dr. Fincher notes that, though this type of light therapy is not meant for things like clearing stubborn pigmentation, reversing wrinkles, or tightening skin, it can be done at home using a light-emitting mask or in a doctor's office. Because it's non-invasive (meaning there's no recovery time), it's convenient and accessible for many.

If you want to try an LED light therapy option at home that targets specific areas on the face, the Solawave Bye Acne is a handy, easy-to-use device that uses blue light to ward off acne-causing bacteria along with red light to fight inflammation. The FDA-cleared spot treatment works in three minutes per blemish and is designed for mild-to-moderate acne.

Looking to splurge? Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare's DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro is the ultimate LED gadget. The mask uses 100 red lights and 60 blue lights to encourage collagen production and keep breakouts at bay.

IPL therapy for improving texture and evening skin tone

IPL, which stands for intense pulsed light, is a stronger form of LED light therapy and a step up in light penetration and potential discomfort. Unlike LED light therapy—which uses light energy that doesn't produce heat—IPL emits broad wavelengths of pulsating light energy that convert to heat to absorb deeper into the skin cells. The potential benefits include improved skin texture as the light penetrates the dermis (the second layer of skin), as well as the fading of dark spots of hyperpigmentation from sun damage and melasma.

On the downside, this form of light therapy can feel slightly uncomfortable, like a rubber band snapping the skin during each pulse, and a typical treatment takes 30 minutes. Dr. Fincher says that IPL is only suitable for light to moderately pigmented skin. This is because it can have the opposite effect in those with darker skin tones, increasing the appearance of spots and causing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (a type of hyperpigmentation) due to how light energy interacts with natural pigment.

"This treatment has been around for decades and has been used successfully for reducing redness, enlarged capillaries, and brown spots and pigment," explains Dr. Fincher. "Typically, the only visible side effect post-treatment is the darkening and slight peeling of brown spots from the skin." IPL usually requires three to six treatments spaced one month apart to see permanent results. It's important to wait four weeks before getting another treatment to let the skin recover and go back to its natural state before being treated again. It can be done at home or in a doctor's office (which will cost you between $300 and $600 per session), but Dr. Fincher notes that the power of home units is far less than that of devices found in a doctor's office. "This difference translates into lesser results, as well as an increased number of treatments required to get those results," he says. That said, at-home devices are convenient and much less expensive.

For an at-home IPL treatment, try the Viss IPL System—the Skin Rejuvenation cartridge helps improve things like melasma, broken capillaries, and dark spots.

Laser treatments for resurfacing the skin

Lasers are the ultimate device for total resurfacing of the skin, and are often referred to as "skin rejuvenation." During treatment, a concentrated, single-wavelength laser beam targets a narrow area of the skin, so only the desired skin cells are affected. In contrast, the normal, healthy skin cells remain untouched. This is effective for things like acne scars, sun spots, and fine lines where you want to spot-treat areas of the face. These treatments are powerful and should be done by a board-certified dermatologist.

Lasers are touted in the skincare world because, depending on the laser used, they can treat a variety of skin conditions such as rosacea and acne. Dr. Fincher says that certain lasers, like carbon dioxide (CO2) or erbium (Er) lasers he offers in his office, can go below the surface of the skin into the dermis. "These lasers remove the old, damaged collagen and elastin (the proteins that keep the skin tight and smooth) and stimulate new proteins in their place," he explains.

As for the ouch factor, it depends on what type of laser (of the dozens) is used and whether your provider applies a numbing cream, but generally, they, too, have been likened to a rubber-band snap. Those who have eczema, psoriasis, or have had recent unprotected sun exposure should avoid lasers and consult their dermatologist.

Laser resurfacing costs vary widely depending on the type of laser used: the national average is around $1,800, but ablative CO2 resurfacing—like the kind Dr. Fincher offers—can cost $4,000 to $6,000. Many people see the effects of laser resurfacing immediately, but for optimal results, three to four treatments one month apart are recommended. Results can last for several years, but the natural aging process may cause lines to appear over time.