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Are your skincare products harming you? Here's how to tell

No, that face cream shouldn't burn.

Credit: Getty Images / Jacob Ammentorp Lund

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Have you ever excitedly purchased a new skincare product—cleanser, serum, moisturizer, or other “miracle in a jar”—only to put it on your face and experience a burning sensation rivaling the fiery pits of hell? It turns that burning sensation on your face is trying to tell you something. The message? Stop.

Why does your face burn when you wash it?

When your skin burns or stings after applying a topical product, that’s your nociceptors (also called pain receptors) indicating that the product is irritating and potentially harming the skin.

Because inflammation often accompanies irritation, it’s a sign that the product may be disrupting the skin barrier. Your skin barrier, the outermost layer of the epidermis, protects skin from bacteria, fungus, and other harmful microorganisms. (In other words, you need it!)

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It could mean you need to ease into your new routine

Some people think that if a skin care product is burning your skin, it means the product is working. Dr. Suzanne Friedler, a board-certified dermatologist with Advanced Dermatology PC in New York City, disagrees. As she says, “I do not follow that reasoning of ‘no pain, no gain’ and ‘feel the burn.’”

However, it’s also possible that your skin needs time to adjust to a product if it’s new to your routine. Retinols, for example, can take some easing into. If the burning is decreasing—either in intensity or in how long the sensation lasts—with each application, that's a good sign your skin is adjusting to the product.

To help it along, try applying a moisturizer to your skin to build up your barrier. After that, apply the retinol (or other product that’s triggering the skin irritation). Follow that up with another layer of moisturizer. Alternatively, reduce application frequency of the new product from twice a day to once a day, or once every two days, until your skin adapts.

It could mean you’re allergic to an ingredient

There’s another possible answer to “Why does my moisturizer burn”: You may be allergic. If the burning intensifies every time you apply the product, or if you break out in a rash, Friedler strongly suggests speaking to a dermatologist. It could be contact dermatitis (a skin rash) that occurs when you’re exposed to an allergen or an irritant.

If you’re allergic to an ingredient, the reaction typically occurs within 12 to 72 hours after exposure, according to the Cleveland Clinic. On the other hand, irritants can cause an immediate reaction.

It turns out that this burning or stinging feeling is trying to tell you something. The message? Stop.

What’s more, it could be a double whammy of both an adjustment period and an allergic reaction. “When your skin is already inflamed, it’s more sensitive to allergens; it’s more sensitive in general,” she says. “You could put on a cream that normally wouldn’t irritate it, but that cream could irritate it at that time because your skin is inflamed.”

The bottom line: If you’re experiencing issues for a week or more, discontinue the new product, and see your dermatologist if issues persist.

It could be normal

There is an exception to all of this. If you received a treatment in a doctor’s office, such as a chemical peel, the reaction may be normal. “A little bit of burning may be normal with that, but [with] your at-home products, you really should not be feeling any level of discomfort at all,” Friedler says.

How to soothe irritated skin

While you wait for your skin to return to normal, Dr. Friedler recommends applying a cold compress or over-the-counter hydrocortisone cream to calm the skin down. Then, she says, avoid exposing your skin to that product again.

Starting a skincare routine

If you have concerns about taking care of your skin, or if you’ve been burned by products before (literally), we’re here to help. We have plenty of resources on starting a skincare routine for any skin type.

Whether you need gentle facial cleansers for sensitive skin or face moisturizers for dry skin, we’re here to help. We consult with expert dermatologists and we also test products ourselves in our mission to help people find effective products, avoid harsh ingredients, and have fun taking better care of themselves.

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