KitchenAid KDRS505XSS 30-Inch Dual Oven Gas Range Review
Dual oven ranges often value features over performance, but this KitchenAid doesn't compromise much.
Fitting two ovens, five burners, and two broilers into a range isn't an easy task. When manufacturers focus on lengthening an oven's résumé with extra features, they sometimes fail to secure their quality. And though these ovens purport to be jacks-of-all-trades, they end up as masters-of-none.
Fortunately, the dual-fuel KitchenAid KDR505XSS double oven range aced the interview and got the job. As far as compensation is concerned, its $2,499 MSRP may be steep, but it's within the expected salary range for a machine like this.
Design & Usability
As always, we like KitchenAid's canted knobs.
The KDRS505XSS uses the standard KitchenAid design language, with stainless steel and black gracing the outside. Speckled cobalt enamel covers both oven interiors with an unexpected splash of color. True to form, KitchenAid cants its knobs up towards the user, allowing for easy adjustment and access. And while the oven controls may look convoluted, having a button for nearly every feature actually makes use easier, though it may not look as elegant.
The burners stress sensitivity, not power.
Most gas ranges have difficulty maintaining an acceptable simmering temperature. That's because gas has a minimum combustion temperature, and it's tough to keep a low heat over time. But this rangetop managed to display some impressively low temperatures across all burners, earning our praise and keeping our soups and sauces warm.
The delicateness did however cost the KDRS505XSS some points in the boiling department. With two low-powered burners at the back and just one dedicated high-power burner at the front, the range's trade off of power for sensitivity may not appeal to someone who wants four jet engines on their rangetop. As long as you know which burner is best for a sautéing, though, you should be fine.
Oven, Broiler, & Convection
Two ovens, this time better than one.
Unlike the gas rangetop, both self-cleaning, broiling, cobalt-blue ovens run on electricity, which — in theory — offers a faster preheat and better control. At 350°F, the top 2.5 cubic foot oven did move up and down the thermometer slightly more than we'd have liked, but it did hit an acceptable average temperature through our test after taking ten minutes to preheat. Sure, this oven didn't stray that far out of our comfort zone, but chefs working with delicate pastry, for example, may demand more from their oven. The low "keep-warm" and maximum heat settings were much better, delivering accurate temperatures consistently.
Armed with an excellent broiler, the 4.2 cubic foot lower oven cavity's convection fan didn't fare quite as well, averaging a temperature far above the convection-adjusted 350°F the control panel displayed. That's the opposite of what an oven should do when it adjusts for convection. But despite the high average, we found it did maintain relatively consistent temperatures, so don't count it out — just set it a bit low.
If you really need two ovens, this could be a worthy choice.
Bakers, roasters, and other oven-inclined people who need a second cavity but don't have space for two wall ovens should consider the KDR505XSS, if its $2,499 MSRP fits within their price range. It performed decently enough in both cavities and outperformed many dual-oven — not to mention dual-fuel – ranges that we've tested, regardless of price.
However, you can get by with a less expensive oven as long as you don't need that second cavity, which still may not be large enough to fit that Thanksgiving turkey.
This oven definitely appeals to a niche buyer. If you're in the market for a mid-range, dual-fuel, dual-cavity, 30-inch range, you can't do much better than this KitchenAid.
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