Fortunately, the dual-fuel KitchenAid KDR505XSS double oven range aced the interview and got the job. As far as compensation is concerned, its $2,499 MSRP may be steep, but it's within the expected salary range for a machine like this.

As always, we like KitchenAid's canted knobs.

The KDRS505XSS uses the standard KitchenAid design language, with stainless steel and black gracing the outside. Speckled cobalt enamel covers both oven interiors with an unexpected splash of color. True to form, KitchenAid cants its knobs up towards the user, allowing for easy adjustment and access. And while the oven controls may look convoluted, having a button for nearly every feature actually makes use easier, though it may not look as elegant.

The burners stress sensitivity, not power.

Most gas ranges have difficulty maintaining an acceptable simmering temperature. That's because gas has a minimum combustion temperature, and it's tough to keep a low heat over time. But this rangetop managed to display some impressively low temperatures across all burners, earning our praise and keeping our soups and sauces warm.

The range's trade off of power for sensitivity may not appeal to someone who wants four jet engines on their rangetop.

The delicateness did however cost the KDRS505XSS some points in the boiling department. With two low-powered burners at the back and just one dedicated high-power burner at the front, the range's trade off of power for sensitivity may not appeal to someone who wants four jet engines on their rangetop. As long as you know which burner is best for a sautéing, though, you should be fine.

Two ovens, this time better than one.

Unlike the gas rangetop, both self-cleaning, broiling, cobalt-blue ovens run on electricity, which — in theory — offers a faster preheat and better control. At 350°F, the top 2.5 cubic foot oven did move up and down the thermometer slightly more than we'd have liked, but it did hit an acceptable average temperature through our test after taking ten minutes to preheat. Sure, this oven didn't stray that far out of our comfort zone, but chefs working with delicate pastry, for example, may demand more from their oven. The low "keep-warm" and maximum heat settings were much better, delivering accurate temperatures consistently.

Armed with an excellent broiler, the 4.2 cubic foot lower oven cavity's convection fan didn't fare quite as well, averaging a temperature far above the convection-adjusted 350°F the control panel displayed. That's the opposite of what an oven should do when it adjusts for convection. But despite the high average, we found it did maintain relatively consistent temperatures, so don't count it out — just set it a bit low.

If you really need two ovens, this could be a worthy choice.

Bakers, roasters, and other oven-inclined people who need a second cavity but don't have space for two wall ovens should consider the KDR505XSS, if its $2,499 MSRP fits within their price range. It performed decently enough in both cavities and outperformed many dual-oven — not to mention dual-fuel – ranges that we've tested, regardless of price.

However, you can get by with a less expensive oven as long as you don't need that second cavity, which still may not be large enough to fit that Thanksgiving turkey.

This oven definitely appeals to a niche buyer. If you're in the market for a mid-range, dual-fuel, dual-cavity, 30-inch range, you can't do much better than this KitchenAid.

Obviously, we have copious amounts of data and charts to inform our opinions. If you want to cut out our editorializing and check out the data yourself, your in the right place.

The 350°F setting fluctuated a bit too much.

Though we had absolutely no issues with the keep-warm and maximum settings—they hit the proper temperatures and didn't fluctuate much—the most popular setting 350°F struggled a bit, hitting temperatures as high as 400°F during our 25 minute test. Though it averaged an acceptable 359°F to the dial's 350°F setting, it operated within a 50°F window instead of the normal 40°F window.

In the lower oven, the convection oven didn't average the 350°F temperature we set it to, instead hitting 379°F. A bit off.

Strong on the simmer, but weak with the boil.

Compared to some of the other gas ranges we've tested, the KDR505XSS didn't show nearly as much power. With two low-powered burners, it did show it was the exception to the classic gas range problem of incompetent simmering, hitting temperatures from 125°F to 144°F when dialed back. Precision users will especially appreciate these low settings trying to simmer a small quantity of liquid or melt chocolate or butter.

The KitchenAid's one powerful burner ushered six cups of water to a boil in almost three minutes flat, a ridiculously quick time. But the rest of the burners were way back, with the second place finisher over ten minutes and the two rear burners closer to 30 minutes to the boil. If you just need one really powerful burner, you're in luck, but chances are that dual oven buyers will need more than that.

We were very impressed with the KitchenAid's broiler, which took just six and a half minutes to preheat to 600°F.

Meet the testers

Ethan Wolff-Mann

Ethan Wolff-Mann

Staff Writer

@ethanwolffmann

Ethan writes reviews and articles about science for Reviewed.com, and edits the Science Blog. He's originally from Vermont and thinks the bicycle and guitar are examples of perfected technology. Prior to Reviewed.com, he studied furiously at Middlebury College.

See all of Ethan Wolff-Mann's reviews

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