Bosch 800 Series HEI8054U Electric Range Review
This range looks and feels great, but it can't compete with our favorite Samsung
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Bosch has entirely revamped its lineup of cooking appliances, focusing on built-in wall ovens and cooktops. If you want a range, you have one design to choose from: a 30-inch model with front controls. It comes in gas, radiant electric, induction electric, and dual-fuel.
The all-electric model, the Bosch 800 Series HEI8054U (MSRP $1,999) is one of the highest-end all-electric ranges you can buy. On sale for $1,799, it’s a good fit for a smaller, upscale kitchen where gas isn’t available.
We cooked on the HEI8054U for a week, preparing the same recipes we use to test all ranges. Our time spent with the 800 Series proved that it does, indeed, have the impeccable fit and finish that Bosch advertises. It excelled in simmering, searing, roasting, and broiling, although baking and preheating were less impressive.
Design & Usability
Bosch’s new ranges have slide-in looks, but fit in the standard 25-inch depth cutout for a freestanding range. That makes for an easier kitchen remodel—just swap in this Bosch for whatever range lived there before. At the very most, you may have to add to your backsplash.
Alternatively, if you’re building a new kitchen from scratch, you can get slide-in looks without worrying about the piece of counter trim that has to be fitted behind most standard slide-in ranges.
We’re fans of the straightforward, European-style aesthetic found on Bosch appliances, although it may not be a great choice if you dislike minimalism. All controls are at the front for easy reach, and we found the oven's digital controls to be intuitive. Buttons and knobs all felt high end. (One complaint: The door slams shut. To get a soft-close door, you’ll have to step up to the pricier Benchmark series.)
Up top, you get a 1,400W/3,000W front-left variable element, a 1,100W/3,200W front-right variable elements, two 1,200W rear elements, plus a 100W warming element in the center. We found the burners properly spaced for using all of them at once.
In the large, 4.6 cu. ft. oven, you can choose from Bake, Variable Broil (hi & low), Roast, Warm, Proof Dough, Convection Bake, Convection Broil, Convection Roast, Multi-Rack European-style Convection with conversion, Pizza, and Fast Preheat. There’s a temperature probe for roasts. Self-cleaning is of the standard, high-heat variety (no steam clean here), and there’s a warming drawer beneath the oven.
We had no complaints about the cooktop’s performance. Boiling water took about seven minutes on high heat on each of the front burners, which is on the long side of average for an electric oven, but sear temperatures were plenty high for woks and steaks.
We were impressed by how low the simmer burners could go—around 120ºF on the simmer settings of both front burners, and around 140ºF on the rear burners.
To test the evenness of each burner, we grill cornbread in a pan, then examine it for dark and light spots. The radiant electric cooktop had a few hot and cold spots, but we had no major issues that would ruin an omelette or crepe.
Down in the oven, the standard preheat was a slow 11 minutes—although the Fast Preheat option should shave a few minutes off that if you’re in a hurry. The broiler was quick and browned evenly across our test toast, with only a tiny bit too much heat in the middle—so you should have no problem broiling steak or finishing French onion soup.
The pork roasts we cooked on both Roast and Convection Roast were even, tender, and juicy—exactly what you want in a roast. Many ovens struggle with this test, so we were glad to see the Bosch excel. The cakes we baked without convection emerged burned on the edges, but turning on convection seemed to smooth things out.
Regardless of whether we used convection or standard bake, thin items—like cookies—came out burnt on the left side, especially toward the front. This was also true for multi-rack convection, which put a damper on the joy of cooking with the HEI8054U.
The Bosch HEI8054U comes with a one-year manufacturer’s defects warranty. Cosmetic defects are only covered for 30 days. Check the Bosch HEI8054U Owner’s Manual for more information.
One thing is for sure: The Bosch name has some cachet, and a suite of Bosch appliances is worth bragging about in a real estate listing. But a $1,799 sale price for the HEI8054U is still around $300 more than its closest competitor—the Samsung NE58F9500SS.
Like the Bosch, the Samsung has a slide-in look that fits in a standard cutout. Unlike the Bosch, the Samsung has massive, 5.8 cu. ft. oven. If features and price are important to you, we recommend checking out the Samsung.
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