Credit:
Canva / J. B Projects
The Best Cabinet Paint of 2026
Products are chosen independently by our editors. Purchases made through our links may earn us a commission.
Credit:
Canva / J. B Projects
Why trust Reviewed?
Reviewed's mission is to help you buy the best stuff and get the most out of what you already own. Our team of product experts thoroughly vet every product we recommend to help you cut through the clutter and find what you need.
Learn more about our product testing
Benjamin Moore Advance Waterborne Interior Alkyd
A hybrid paint that brings the durability of oil-based paints without the headaches and hassle. Read More
Pros
- Dries to tough, durable shell
- Cleans up with water
- Low VOC
Cons
- Long cure times
- Could yellow over time, but not as much as true oil paints
Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel
A water-based alkyd paint with the durability of oil, it's loved by pros and DIYers alike. Read More
Pros
- Durable
- Self-leveling
- Low VOC
Cons
- Expensive
- Will leave brush strokes if not careful
Behr Urethane Alkyd Semi-Gloss Enamel
This mid-priced, water-based alkyd bonds well to prepped surfaces and can be tinted to thousands of colors. Read More
Pros
- Durable
- Affordable
- Easy cleanup
Cons
- Potentially long sure times
- Prone to sags and drips if over-applied
Annie Sloan Chalk Paint
The original chalk paint, Annie Sloan is famous for the shabby chic look that creates imperfect perfection. Read More
Pros
- No sanding or priming
- Great for distressing
- Low VOC
Cons
- Requires wax sealing or topcoat
- Premium price
General Finishes Milk Paint
A great general-use milk paint that's super durable and finishes with an old-world antique charm. Read More
Pros
- Durable
- Low VOC
- Made from renewable resources
Cons
- Few pre-mixed color options
-
Benjamin Moore Advance Waterborne Interior Alkyd
-
Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel
-
Behr Urethane Alkyd Semi-Gloss Enamel
-
Annie Sloan Chalk Paint
-
General Finishes Milk Paint
-
Choosing a Paint Type: Latex, Alkyd, Oil, Chalk, and Milk Paints
-
The Right Finish: Matte, Satin, Semi-Gloss, or Gloss
-
Prep Work: Surface Preparation Makes All the Difference
-
When and Why to Use a Primer
-
Related content
- Best Overall Benjamin Moore Advance Waterborne Interior Alkyd
- Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel
- Behr Urethane Alkyd Semi-Gloss Enamel
- Annie Sloan Chalk Paint
- General Finishes Milk Paint
- Choosing a Paint Type: Latex, Alkyd, Oil, Chalk, and Milk Paints
- The Right Finish: Matte, Satin, Semi-Gloss, or Gloss
- Prep Work: Surface Preparation Makes All the Difference
- When and Why to Use a Primer
- Related content
The Rundown
- Our favorite cabinet paints are the Benjamin Moore Advance Waterborne Interior Alkyd and the Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel.
- These water-based alkyd paints offer excellent durability, rich color, and easy application with low VOCs, combining the best of oil and water-based formulas.
- Proper surface preparation, including cleaning, degreasing, and sanding, is crucial for a long-lasting finish, even with self-leveling paints.
If the kitchen is the heart of the home, the cabinets must be the soul, which is why picking the best paint for cabinets is essential. Cabinets take up so much surface space, that they set the visual tone. The right paint creates the drama, flair, or charm that you’re looking for. A fresh coat, either brushed or sprayed on, can mask age or damage. Repainting is also significantly cheaper than replacing the floor or counter, so it’s never a bad time to consider it as a DIY renovation project.
It’s so much more than just color, though. In this guide, we’ll teach you how different types of paint create a visual effect and a layer of protection against grease and stains. We’ll also tell you how to prep your surfaces so your paint lasts for years.
Our favorite cabinet paint, Benjamin Moore Advance Waterborne Interior Alkyd (available at Ace Hardware) , is a great all-around solution for most kitchens, but we’ve got recommendations for all your design needs.
Choosing a Paint Type: Latex, Alkyd, Oil, Chalk, and Milk Paints
There are several options when it comes to choosing the right paint for your cabinets. It used to be a choice between oil or latex, each with its own strengths and problems. Fortunately, paint technology—yes, there is such a thing!—has advanced.
Latex Paint
Traditional latex paint was once the only alternative to oil-based paint. By comparison, water-based latex is much easier to work with and clean up. Plus they have low VOC. Latex paint bonds well to surfaces, but it can remain soft after it dries. They’re also not as durable.
- Drying time: 1-2 hours before next coat
- Curing time: 2-3 weeks
- Cleanup: Soap and water
Oil Paint
Traditional oil paint is less commonly used today thanks to water-based alkyd paint. Prior to that, tough and durable alkyd paint was only available in an oil paint. So if you wanted that hard shell of protection on your cabinets (or doors, or trim, or bathroom vanity—all the hard-wearing wood items in the house), you had to put up with the headaches of oil paint. And we mean headaches literally because the strong VOCs could be overwhelming. Not to mention the cleanup.
- Drying time: 24 hours before next coat
- Curing time: 1-2 weeks
- Cleanup: Mineral spirits or other solvent
Hybrid or Water-Based Alkyd Paint
Water-based alkyd paint, sometimes labeled as waterborne alkyd, is a hybrid that combines some of the best attributes of water-based latex and oil-based paints. The alkyd resins that create a strong surface bond used to only be found in oil paint, but now the alkyds can be suspended in a water-based solution. You get the durability and hard shell of a fully-cured oil-based paint but with easy cleanup and low VOC. Water-based alkyd paint is certainly not the only choice for cabinets, but they’re at the top of nearly everyone’s list.
- Drying time: 12-24 hours before next coat
- Curing time: 5+ days
- Cleanup: Soap and water
Chalk Paint
Chalk paint has a very specific, ultra-matte look, all but synonymous with the shabby chic aesthetic. It’s a paint that can bond to almost any surface and requires little to no prep. That said, it’s not durable and requires a wax sealant or top coat if you’re applying it to high-traffic areas like the kitchen or bathroom.
- Drying time: 1-3 hours before next coat
- Curing time: 24 hours
- Cleanup: Soap and water
Milk Paint
Milk paint is another ultra-matte finish that provides a rustic, farmhouse feel to your wood. It’s more durable than chalk paint. A topcoat isn’t strictly necessary, but it's probably not a bad idea for high-touch surfaces like cabinets.
- Drying time: 1-2 hours before next coat
- Curing time: 3 weeks
- Cleanup: Soap and water
The Right Finish: Matte, Satin, Semi-Gloss, or Gloss
After picking a color, choosing a finish is probably your final step before purchasing. Are you looking for the super-shiny gloss of a modern kitchen, or are you leaning more farmhouse? Here’s what you need to know.
Matte
Matte finishes are, in essence, the opposite of gloss. There’s no reflection of light, just a velvety texture almost like bare wood. This can be a beautiful look, but it can lead to headaches in the kitchen. A tough, glossy veneer is an effective barrier against oils and food stains. Matte finishes are more likely to absorb spills straight into the wood, creating permanent stains. If you’re dead set on a matte finish, strongly consider a transparent wax or matte sealant as a protective topcoat, even if your paint says that the topcoat is built in.
Satin
A satin finish is the lightest of glosses, creating a soft glow that effectively hides surface imperfections and fingerprints that show up on more glossy surfaces. Satin glosses can be wiped down and offer a level of protection against mildew.
Semi-Gloss
Semi-gloss is perhaps the most popular choice for cabinets. It stands up well to the inevitable spills and splatters of a kitchen. The hard, non-porous surface is easy to wipe down. It also endures under heavy use without showing too many fingerprints, making it a great choice for families.
Gloss
Gloss finishes are sophisticated and dramatic, perfect for capturing that ultra-modern kitchen look. They’re also frustrating and high maintenance because they reflect and highlight every fingerprint and imperfection in the underlying surface. That said, a gloss finish is easy to wipe down and resistant to staining.
Prep Work: Surface Preparation Makes All the Difference
It doesn’t matter how good your paint looks in photos—you’ll never match that look if you don’t adequately prep your surfaces before painting. Fail to do so, and you can expect blotchy colors and bad surface binding that leads to chips and flakes.
Clean and Degrease
Kitchen cabinets are gross. They’re covered in all sorts of dust, grime, and grease. Even fresh wood straight from the lumber yard can suffer these problems. All of this makes a terrible surface for paint to adhere to. It’s vital to the success of your paint project that you start with a clean slate. TSP (Trisodium phosphate), Krud Kutter, or even a little dish soap and water, then a whole lot of scrubbing, is the key.
Be sure to wipe everything down with clean water and let dry thoroughly before the next step.
Sanding: Smooth the Surface and Remove the Existing Finish
Next comes sanding. It may seem counterintuitive if you haven’t done this before, but paint sticks better on slightly rough surfaces. Sandpaper is measured in grit, with lower numbers being more coarse and higher numbers being more fine.
If your cabinets are in good shape, start with 120 to 150-grit sandpaper. Apply medium, even pressure in the direction of the grain. If you have deep scratches, now’s a good time to sand them out with something rougher like 80 or 100. In either case, do a second and third pass with increasingly finer grits, with a final pass using around 220 grit.
Repair: Fill Gaps, Cracks, and Dents
A fresh coat of paint can breathe new life into your kitchen, but it won’t cover all the old problems. Once you’ve cleaned and degreased, it’s a perfect time to sand out scratches and make repairs on gouges and dents. Use a stainable, sandable wood filler to patch problem areas. A putty knife is the best way to fill it in. After an hour or so, use fine sandpaper to level it smooth.
When and Why to Use a Primer
“Primer sticks to your surface. Paint sticks to primer.” That’s a simplistic but easy-to-remember why primer matters and how it can lead to a better, longer-lasting paint job. Primer is a foundation for success. It’s essential for most kinds of paint that we talked about here. Even paints that don’t require a primer, like chalk and milk paint, can benefit from it in certain situations. Primer blocks stains like tannins, grease residue, and old paint colors from showing through your new coat.
Like paint, there are lots of options for primer—too many to go into detail here. But put simply, you’ll need to choose between oil-based and water-based primers. Oil-based primers used to be the go-to choice for creating a smooth, level surface, but water-based alternatives have caught up. Today, Sherwin-Williams Premium Wall & Wood Primer and Zinsser Smart Prime are highly-rated, water-based solutions.
Meet the tester
David Kender oversees content at Reviewed as the Editor in Chief. He served as managing editor and editor in chief of Reviewed's ancestor, CamcorderInfo.com, helping to grow the company from a tiny staff to one of the most influential online review resources. In his time at Reviewed, David has helped to launch over 100 product categories and written too many articles to count.
Checking our work.
Our team is here to help you buy the best stuff and love what you own. Our writers, editors, and experts obsess over the products we cover to make sure you're confident and satisfied. Have a different opinion about something we recommend? Email us and we'll compare notes.
Shoot us an email