A pleasing mix of old world charm and future tech.
If there is a word to sum up the Electrolux EW27EW55GS, it's "transitional." If you fear commitment, specifically regarding home decor, this may be the wall oven for you. It straddles the fine line between traditional and futuristic with aplomb. In fact, this wall oven is perfect for consumers nervous about committing to a specific theme. The sturdy, stainless steel trim echoes the designs found in professional kitchens, while the huge black oven window and touch controls bring a touch of modernity to the proceedings. The oven also features two Luxury Glide oven racks. The name is apt as they really do extend effortlessly. The cobalt blue interior brings some much needed color to the mix, but the window is deceptively small.
Electrolux has certainly pulled out all the stops with the EW27EW55GS's control scheme. The wall oven features Electrolux's Wave Touch control system. When the oven is not in use, the control panel is completely blank. However, brushing one's hand across the control panel—in a manner similar to unlocking an iPhone—brings up a multitude of cooking options; and when we say a multitude, we mean it! Put simply, the EW27EW55GS features an almost overwhelming abundance of cook modes and customizations, including an extremely welcome Dehydrate option as well as a Perfect Turkey setting, which promises Thanksgiving at the touch of a button. Only the relevant options light up, but the sheer volume of options may still confuse some users. Essentially, the EW27EW55GS is perfect for those who need a bit of help in the kitchen.
We're detecting a trend here...
Good looks and exhaustive controls will only go so far, so we were curious to see if the EW27EW55GS's performance justified its price tag. We are happy to report that it did, for the most part. The broiler was excellent, reaching the target temperature in only five minutes—aided by the relatively small oven cavity. Additionally, our cake cooking tests indicated that the overall temperature of the oven remained accurate and precise over a long period of time. Furthermore, the convection setting justified its presence by adding accuracy and precision.
Unfortunately, as De La Soul tells us, it ain't all good. The EW27EW55GS had a couple of crucial shortcomings in terms of performance. The preheat was notably sluggish, taking 15 minutes to reach 350ºF and 9 minutes in the convection setting. The oven does have a Quick Preheat setting, that Electrolux claims will cut preheat time by 25%. Even so, 11 minutes is a long time. In any case, in order to create a level playing field, we don't factor options like these into our testing. Additionally, our batch of test cookies was extremely inconsistent from left to right, which tells us that there were various cool and hot spots during cooking. Be careful with your food placement.
Mixed results in more ways than one.
In much the same way that the EW27EW55GS's design straddles traditional and modern, oven performance alternates between excellent and disappointing. While the oven proved accurate, and the convection setting and broiler did a bang-up job, the poor precision and slow preheat failed to impress. So ultimately, does this appliance justify its high price tag? That really depends on what you value in a wall oven. While there are better performing ovens out there, few offer the same level of control and convenience packed into the EW27EW55GS's small frame.
Meet the tester
Aside from reviewing ovens and cooktops, James moonlights as an educational theatre practitioner, amateur home chef, and weekend DIY warrior.
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