LG LSE3090ST Slide-In Electric Range Review
This slide-in range will win you over with its modern looks, and how it cooks.
The LG LSE3090ST Electric Slide-In Range (MSRP $1,799) isn’t the fanciest of ranges. It’s not full of cool features, and the price alone rules it out of luxury territory. However, it pairs good performance with slick design in a unique way, and it's one of the least-expensive slide-in ranges on the market.
Both the oven and rangetop did what we asked, but lacked some of the refinement of higher-end ranges. Still, there aren't any flaws that would get in the way of cooking a delicious meal.
Design & Usability
Minimalist spaceship-chic, anyone?
Ready for liftoff? We think this 4.5-cubic-foot range has just enough of a futuristic vibe to double as a spaceship for Calvin and Hobbes—although playing in an oven is a bad idea, even for Spaceman Spiff.
That retro-futuristic aesthetic is the result of sharp edges, sleek stainless steel, and a generally minimalist design. The interior of the oven, like so many others, is coated in a yet another lovely shade of cobalt blue.
Control knobs are conveniently located on the front of the range, and easily change up the heat on the LSE3090ST’s four elements—one of which is of the dual-ring variety. Oven controls are digital, and features include some nifty extras. In addition to the standard lineup of Bake, Broil, Convection Bake and Convection Roast, there's also Warm—plus a “Proof” setting to help bread rise, and a “Favorite” function that saves your favorite recipe settings.
There’s also a self-clean cycle to keep that beautiful blue interior looking bright.
This rangetop will do everything you need and do it well, but the burners have some quirks at high heat that concern us.
The two front burners (with the dual-ring burner set to its 9-inch ring) were the fastest, both bringing six cups of water to a boil in under six minutes. We love to see at least two burners on a rangetop with this kind of speed, for those times when we want to boil potatoes and pasta without skipping a beat.
Other cooking zones took more than ten minutes to boil six cups, so we’d recommend sticking to the front burners whenever possible.
Our maximum temperature test found some issues with the front burners. The 9-inch front left burner reached a high of 810°F, which is hotter than any home cook has need for. Because it’s located on the front of the range, you should be careful not to let it get too hot.
In a strange contrast, the front right burner failed to hit temperatures above 472°F. Users will have to keep in mind the fact that turning that left burner up all the way will get you almost twice as much heat as turning up that right burner.
Both back burners, as well as the front left burner’s inner ring, found their highest temps in a very respectable range of 636°F to 698°F. It might be easiest and safest to stick to these burners when you’re cooking something over high heat.
The results of our low temp cooking test were far more consistent, with all cooking zones hitting their lowest temps between 90°F and 140°F. That's good for simmering sauces and soups.
Oven, Broiler, & Convection
Quick to broil and preheat
The oven and broiler both heated up quickly. The broiler hit our target 607°F in about five minutes, while the oven took just under ten minutes to preheat for both regular and convection settings. Not bad at all.
Our bake tests are where we started to see some issues. Bake tests are a key part of our testing process because they give us a chance to see how the oven can handle cooking real food. In this case, sugar cookies we baked using the convection setting had burnt bottoms and pale tops. Unfortunately, the degree of this browning changed from cookie to cookie, so it’s not going to be terribly easy to correct through methods like use of parchment paper and bake time adjustment. All cookies were definitely darker on the bottom, though, so these techniques should help at least a little bit.
Cakes fared slightly better, although we did see dark bottoms, over-browned top edges, and some variation in browning throughout each cake. However, unlike what we saw with the cookies, this variation was actually pretty consistent from one cake to another. This means that the parchment paper and bake time adjustment may actually do the trick for larger baked goods that are a little slower to burn.
Not a Bad Choice
An affordable slide-in
The LSE3090ST isn't perfect, but it's got a lot going for it. That minimalist retro-futuristic aesthetic is fun, but the range is more than just eye candy—so long as you’re careful with those front burners. We’ve got a slightly finicky oven that should cook your food the way you want it to, although it may take some experimentation.
A retail price between $1,600 and $1,800 isn’t cheap, but it’s very reasonable for a slide-in range. If that's what you're looking for, you should check out this LG.
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