ovens

Whirlpool WFG720H0AS 30-Inch Gas Range Review

Loaded with an impressive rangetop, an Aqualift cleaning system, and a stylish look, this Whirlpool only falls far short in oven performance.

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Introduction

The Whirlpool Corporation sure has its hands full, juggling Amana, Maytag, KitchenAid and Jenn-Air. And the Whirlpool WFG720H0AS ($1,349 MSRP, $1,150 on sale) is evidence that Whirlpool needs to carve out some me time — get a pedicure, throw on Love, Actually, and give that thermostat a rest for a day. Despite the handsome stainless steel exterior and strong rangetop performance, the rocky oven sure seemed to need a vacation.

Design & Usability

Whirlpool presents some stylish design elements in the grates and knobs.

This Whirlpool exemplifies a new design language that's aimed at style-conscious buyers

In the past, shoppers may have looked to the Whirlpool Corporation's more bougie brands like KitchenAid or Jenn-Air for more attractive or spiffy designs, but the WFG720H0AS exemplifies a new design language that's aimed at style-conscious buyers. We especially appreciated the attention to the knobs, which wouldn't look out of place in a sea of Poggenpohl or SieMatic.

On the rangetop, the impressive-looking continuous grates can accommodate a griddle or oversized stoveware, and come away in two pieces for easy cleaning. To the rear, the backsplash protects walls from edible shrapnel. Unfortunately, it also houses the oven controls, which means you'll be reaching over pots and pans to adjust temperatures.

Rangetop

The WFG720H0AS's simmer burner can actually simmer.

The three main burners are as good as some pro range burners we've seen.

Whirlpool may have not got the oven right with the WFG720H0AS, but they sure made an impressive rangetop. The three main burners were are as good as some pro ranges we've seen, and the two front power burners could boil six cups of water in under six minutes. In this price range, these numbers definitely appeal not only to serious cooks, but to impatient people who hate waiting years for their pasta pot to be ready.

As people often lament, gas rangetops don't always simmer small quantities of liquid very well, often making users turn the burner off and on again in an effort to balance a temperature just short of a boil. That's true for most of the burners on this rangetop, but the right rear "AccuSimmer" burner can handle the challenge.

Oven, Broiler, & Convection

Poor performance, fast preheating.

The oven overshot the target temperatures and wandered up and down the mercury.

Two standard racks and one maximum-capacity rack divide the 5.8 cubic foot oven, which features the water-based Aqualift cleaning system, an alternative to the typical fire and brimstone self-clean. Unfortunately, the oven's performance didn't match its feature set.

First, the good news: it preheated to 350°F in under nine minutes. Instead of stopping there, however, this one didn't know when to quit and repeatedly overshot target temperatures. Then, things got really bad: While the temperature display on the oven remained constant, actual temperatures moved up and down the mercury like Jimmy Page's fingers on the neck of a Les Paul.

Conclusion

The Whirlpool WFG720H0AS's Achilles' heel of an oven brings this down.

This handsome, yet over-eager, range fails when it comes to baking.

Sure, Whirlpool gave this range a clean, modern exterior and its burner performance was superb for a gas range in this price range. But like a guy who calls an hour after a first date, this oven loses its appeal fast because it can't keep its cool. We suggest the folks responsible for the WFG720H0AS's thermostat take advantage of the range's nine-minute boil, brew up a cup of chamomile tea, take a deep breath, and head back to the lab.

Our editors review and recommend products to help you buy the stuff you need. If you make a purchase by clicking one of our links, we may earn a small share of the revenue. Our picks and opinions are independent from any business incentives.
Our editors review and recommend products to help you buy the stuff you need. If you make a purchase by clicking one of our links, we may earn a small share of the revenue. Our picks and opinions are independent from any business incentives.
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Our editors review and recommend products to help you buy the stuff you need. If you make a purchase by clicking one of our links, we may earn a small share of the revenue. Our picks and opinions are independent from any business incentives.
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